Bill Sniffin: My 538-Mile Loop Drive Included Spectacular Wyoming Rivers And Lakes

Columnist Bill Sniffin writes: “During the first week of August, I traveled from Lander up to Lovell and then over to Yellowstone and then back home. This amounted to 538 miles of dry country interrupted by fertile fields, beautiful rivers, and spectacular lakes and reservoirs."

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Bill Sniffin

September 16, 20255 min read

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By definition, most of Wyoming is semi-arid, which means it is almost desert.

When it comes to average altitude, we are the second highest state in the USA behind Colorado. That means dry.

When it comes to humidity, we are very, very dry. It was less than 10 percent one day in August.

And what all this really means is that Wyoming is a thirsty place. It craves water.

Lots Of Lakes

During the first week of August, I traveled from Lander up to Lovell and then over to Yellowstone and then back home. This amounted to 10.5 hours of windshield time and 538 miles of dry country interrupted by fertile fields, beautiful rivers, and spectacular lakes and reservoirs.

Readers of my columns know that I love these kinds of road trips, especially across the Cowboy State. These bluebird days, with clear skies, very little smoke from distant fires, a bright yellow sun, little wind, and miles and miles of distant views to enjoy.

Because Wyoming is so dry, I decided to focus this trip (and this subsequent column) on water.

Here in this great state, the old line is that “Whiskey is for drinking and water is for fighting over.” Yes, water can be scarce but not because folks have not been trying to harness it and save it. I drove by lots of bodies of water that just glistened against the blue sky above.

Prior to this trip, Nancy and I joined our daughter Shelli Johnson’s family for a paddle boarding trip on the small Pilot Butte Reservoir, tucked away in the hills of central Fremont County.

It is a beautiful place tenderly cared for by the U. S. Bureau of Reclamation, smack in the middle of the Wind River Indian Reservation. It was so much fun.

Headed North

Boysen Reservoir is in northeastern Fremont County and is a glorious body of water with lots of history. It was being drawn down on this day by irrigation needs in the area. I met my brother Ron and his wife Tamara for a cup of coffee at Tough Creek Campground.

They were boating there and although tempted I had to turn down going on a boat trip because of previous commitments.

The wedding of the waters just north of Wind River Canyon is like a small lake as the same river changes its name from Wind River to Bighorn River.

My destination was to follow that river through Worland, Basin, and Greybull enroute to Lovell for a story about Bighorn Canyon. Bighorn Lake is a marvel which was featured Monday in Cowboy State Daily. 

Buffalo Bill Reservoir

The next day found me gawking at the huge Buffalo Bill Reservoir, which was also being drawn down for irrigation just west of Cody. The massive dam there was the largest in the world when it was built in 1910.

The long, long highway tunnels through the mountains are always impressive, too.

Yellowstone Lake is one of my favorite places and will be the topic of a future column about the 55th year of visiting the great park. The lake was spectacular on this day as was the massive Lewis Lake.  

Coincidentally, my brother Ron had moved from Boysen to Jackson Lake and wanted to host me there on this loop trip. When I got there, he was already camped on the other side of the big lake. No boat ride for me on that day. But I was on a tight schedule so that was okay.

On my way back home was the Jackson Lake Lodge, which was the headquarters for my old late friend Clay James. What a visionary leader he was for Wyoming and Teton County.

Efforts are underway to get a mountain named after him. It would be hard to find anyone more suited for such an honor. Just a terrific leader.

Coming over Togwotee Pass I found myself at the end of the trip coming to the beginning of the great river system that I had been following. 

The Wind River headwaters are in the massive Wind River Mountains above Dubois then it flows south through Fremont County before turning north at Riverton then becomes Boysen Reservoir and on through Wind River Canyon before becoming the Bighorn River.

Bull Lake

A gigantic lake on the Wind River Reservation is Bull Lake Reservoir. I had not visited it in 20 years and this spectacular body of water was not as impressive as the giant canyon it occupies. It was really drawn down for irrigation. It will be fun to go see it next spring when it is bursting with all that melted Wind River Mountains snow.

My final lake was tiny Ray Lake between Fort Washakie. It is a nice tidy lake for the locals and was glistening in the later afternoon sun as I made the home stretch back to Lander.

It was a wonderful trip full of lots of old and new experiences. My focus was on water and the Wind/Bighorn River and it could not have been any better.  

Bill Sniffin can be reached at: Bill@CowboyStateDaily.com

Authors

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Bill Sniffin

Wyoming Life Columnist

Columnist, author, and journalist Bill Sniffin writes about Wyoming life on Cowboy State Daily -- the state's most-read news publication.