One More For The Road

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Cowboy State Daily is Wyoming’s largest newspaper with Wyoming’s most experienced journalists. 

<title>One More For The Road: Wednesday, January 11, 2023 | Cowboy State Daily</title>

Well, here's another way to eat corn...

One More For The Road: Wednesday, January 11, 2023

Headshot of Cowboy State Daily's Feature Reporter, Andrew Rossi.

Andrew Rossi

Around Wyoming

[{"type":"text","text":"After 152 million years, Big Al is back."}]

The Wild West Dino Den will officially open in the Historic Red Shell Schoolhouse in Shell on July 27. The centerpiece exhibit is an exact skeletal replica of “Big Al,” a local icon and one of the most famous dinosaurs ever found.

 found near Shell in 1991. Now, 35 years after its discovery, 

 has brought the famous dinosaur back to its old stomping grounds.

“Big Al’s a big deal for us,” said Erik Kvale, president of the Wild West Dino Den. “Bringing this particular dinosaur back is going to put us on a lot of people’s radars before too long.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Best Of The Best"}]

While countless children and dinosaur enthusiasts know dinosaurs by their scientific names, many people know Big Al on a first-name basis. That’s because this dinosaur’s story is one of the most famous in paleontological history.

The fossilized skeleton of Big Al was found by Swiss paleontologist Kirby Siber in 1991. Because it was on federal land, the specimen was excavated by paleontologists from the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman, Montana, the University of Wyoming Geological Museum, and the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology in Alberta, Canada.

Big Al’s skeleton was 95% complete, making it one of the most complete dinosaur specimens ever found.

The specimen became even more notable when a 2002 paper revealed 19 distinct skeletal injuries and diseases preserved in Big Al’s fossils.  Those afflictions include several fractured ribs, a torn-up hand, and a massive bone infection on the right middle toe.

Big Al was 17 years old when he died and still wasn’t a fully-grown adult. The still-unprecedented number of injuries revealed that this dinosaur was a survivor, despite the pain and debilitating life it would inevitably have endured before its demise.

“Big Al (is famous) because of the record of its life and times in its bones,” John Scannella, the John R. Horner curator of paleontology at the Museum of the Rockies, 

. “The more studies we can apply to this particular dinosaur, applying different techniques and analyses, the more we can learn about that animal’s life and the world around it.”

Big Al’s story was so compelling that it was featured in the 2000 BBC documentary, “Walking with Dinosaurs: The Ballad of Big Al.” The half-hour special, narrated by legendary Shakespearean actor Kenneth Branagh, won two Emmy Awards and made Big Al an international celebrity.

“It is the most famous dinosaur from our area,” Kvale said. “Now, he’s back on his home turf for the first time in 150 million years.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Bring ‘Em Home"}]

The actual fossils of Big Al are in the permanent collections at the Museum of the Rockies, which is a repository for fossils from federal lands. A replica of the finished specimen still stands at the UW Geological Museum.

Big Al returned to Shell in a massive shipping crate last week. It will be officially unveiled to the public when the Wild West Dino Den officially opens Saturday.

“Our non-profit is registered as the Big Horn Basin Dinosaur and Geoscience Center, but we found that name was way too cumbersome,” Kvale said. “The world will know us as The Wild West Dino Den.”

Big Al will hang out in the Shell Schoolhouse for the discernible future, but not forever. Kvale’s goal is to open a permanent 4,000-square-foot museum in Greybull, where Big Al will be joined by replicas of other famous dinosaur specimens from the area.

“This is a big deal for us, but what people will see in Shell is a postage-stamp view of what we hope our larger museum will be like,” he said.

When the Wild West Dino Den opens June 27, people will get to see replicas of two other significant fossil finds from the area.

“Baby Toni” was acquired with a grant from the Big Horn Rural Electric Company. The 5-foot-long baby sauropod was found in the famous Howe-Stephens Quarry, a stone’s throw away from Big Al’s final resting place.

[{"type":"text","text":"“It’s the world's most complete baby sauropod,” Kvale said."}]

The other display is a nest of Allosaurus eggs. The only Allosaurus nest ever found was excavated by the Smithsonian Institution between Greybull and Shell.

“We have casts of 24 reconstructed Allosaurus eggs,” Kvale said. “The other 24 are on display in the Smithsonian’s dinosaur hall.”

Kvale said the museum already has the funds to acquire a replica of another exceptional dinosaur found near Shell. “Sophie,” the world’s most complete Stegosaurus, is on display in the Natural History Museum of London.

“We don’t have room to fit another dinosaur in the Shell Schoolhouse,” Kvale said. “Once we get a bigger museum, Sophie will be right down the pike.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Hometown Hero"}]

On Friday, Kvale and several Wild West Dino Den board members gathered in Shell to assemble Big Al’s skeleton.

The 1:1 replica was purchased from Research Casting International in Ontario, Canada. It’s one of the most renowned companies in the world for skeletal replicas of dinosaurs and other prehistoric animals.

“They were very excited about Big Al coming home,” Kvale said. “They said they’d share the link to our museum on their website, so they’ll be giving us international attention.”

Everyone who helped assemble Big Al felt that they were participating in a historic moment.

“It felt like an honor,” said paleontologist Jessica Lippincott, author of “Wyoming’s Dinosaur Discoveries. “It felt historic. We were able to bring Big Al back to the place where he lived, died, and was discovered. It was awesome.”

Meanwhile, news of Big Al’s return has already gotten locals excited. Many remember the international media frenzy that descended on Shell surrounding the dinosaur's excavation.

“I spoke to someone who remembered going out to see Big Al being excavated when he was a kid,” Kvale said. “He’s in his 40s now, and he’s thrilled that Big Al is back.”

Kirby Siber, the man who discovered Big Al, went on to build 

. One of Europe's largest dinosaur museum, Sieber filled it with dozens of spectacularly well-preserved dinosaurs from Shell, including Baby Toni and “Big Al 2,” a similarly injured Allosaurus.

Kvale got an email from Siber, who said he was proud to call the Wild West Dino Den “our sister museum.”

The Wild West Dino Den will officially open to the public between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.  June 27. From there, Kvale hopes they’ll have the schoolhouse open to the public “most days of the week” this summer.

Meanwhile, the museum’s board is working with the town of Greybull to pursue funding for Big Al’s permanent home.

“At the rate we’re progressing, that’ll be three to four years down the road,” he said. “The agreement we have is that the town of Greybull will pursue the funding for the building, and we’ll acquire the dinosaurs to put inside.”

Big Al isn’t the largest dinosaur intended for the museum, but it carries the most significance for Kvale and his board. It’s like an international celebrity making a triumphant homecoming after 152 million years.

“I feel like we’re getting the ball rolling,” Kvale said. “The world knows Big Al, and locals know Big Al. It’s a famous fossil and a very big deal for us.”

Contact Andrew Rossi at andrew@cowboystatedaily.com

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<title>After 35 Years, 152-Million-Year-Old Dinosaur 'Big Al' Returns Home To Wyoming | Cowboy State Daily</title>

“Big Al,” a world-famous 152-million-year-old dinosaur found near Shell in 1991, is back home in Shell, Wyoming. Big Al’s skeleton is 95% complete, making it one of the most complete dinosaur specimens ever found.

After 35 Years, 152-Million-Year-Old Dinosaur 'Big Al' Returns Home To Wyoming

Anna-Louise Jackson

Public Lands

The Going-to-the Sun Highway has such a cult-like following that some Internet detectives have spent recent weeks analyzing the live webcam of a high-altitude parking lot just to catch a glimpse.

They’re now able to put boots on the ground as this iconic highway fully opened to motorists Monday after an eight-month winter closure.

Your take on this feverish obsession probably comes down to something simple: You’ve either experienced firsthand the beauty and grandeur of this stretch of road in Montana’s Glacier National Park — or you haven’t. 

For many people, there’s no middle ground.

There are practical reasons, too, why people go gaga about the Going-to-the-Sun. As the park’s sole east-west artery, it connects the two most-visited entrances and unlocks Glacier’s sprawling interior to recreationists for a scant four months of the year or so.

And as a National Historic Landmark, the highway is a destination unto itself. A slow, winding west-to-east journey takes visitors through lush valleys before steadily ascending along sheer cliffs with sweeping views of glaciers, alpine lakes, cascading waterfalls, and occasional glimpses of wildlife until it reaches Logan Pass atop the Continental Divide and descends once again.

Ranked the third most-scenic drive in the U.S. by Tripadvisor reviewers, people tend to throw around superlatives like “stunning,” “spectacular,” or “unforgettable” to describe it.

At the highway’s opening ceremony in July 1933, Montana’s then-governor Frank H. Cooney summed it up in a way that remains apt today: “We may confidently declare that there is no highway which will give the sightseer, the lover of the grandeur of the Creator’s handiwork, more thrills, more genuine satisfaction deep down in his being than will a trip over this road.”

A trip over the Going-to-the-Sun today wouldn't be possible were it not for a group of 1920s-era visionaries who first mapped this engineering marvel.

But the modern-day road crew deserves just as much credit.

It was while listening to a presentation by the park’s road supervisor a few years ago that local filmmaker Jordan Lefler became inspired.

“I thought how cool it would be to document that plowing process,” Lefler recalled. “It’s very orchestrated.”

He enlisted the help of his brother and fellow filmmaker Logan Lefler, and the duo initially set out to document that annual ritual, only to learn their access would be limited due to safety concerns. Undeterred, they decided to take a broader purview of a road that shouldn’t exist. 

And their timing couldn’t be more perfect: One day after the Going-to-the-Sun re-opened, the brothers pulled back the curtain on their documentary film that celebrates this road. 

” will premiere on Tuesday in Kalispell, launching a summer and fall screening tour that will hit various cities across Montana and potentially some places in Wyoming.

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Part of what makes the road so iconic is the route itself.

Before construction began in the 1920s, engineers proposed three potential routes. One of those designs was "really hideous," Lefler said, featuring a dizzying dozen or so switchbacks, more like a utilitarian logging road.

Instead, today’s scenic highway uses the mountain’s natural topography as a guide and features only one official, albeit massive, hairpin switchback.

Dubbed “The Loop,” this switchback marks the transition into the white-knuckled portion of the drive for some people, as a low brick wall or guardrail is all that protects cars on one side of the road, while the other side hugs a sheer cliff

Born and raised in Arlee, Montana, about 115 miles south of the park on the Flathead Indian Reservation, Lefler said his love of both the outdoors and photography meant that he naturally gravitated to visiting Glacier quite frequently.

Now having spent so many hours behind the lens documenting this place he loves, he sees some aspects of the road in a new light.

“When I hit ‘The Loop’ area and see the road laid out ahead of me, I see how it blends in with the landscape,” Lefler said. “We have some people to thank for the beautiful sweep of the road we got today.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"},{"type":"bold"}],"text":"First Impressions"}]

One of the beauties of this highway is that each journey up and down offers something new to experience even for regulars, while first-timers might feel a tinge of regret: 

 on his first visit to Glacier, and that’s saying something: His professional photography business takes him to plenty of spectacular places.

“It’s phenomenal,” the Kansas-based photographer said of his first experience driving the Going-to-the-Sun. “It’s easily one of the top roads in the United States, if not the world.”

When he arrived in 2022 to capture the fall foliage, Shannon quickly scrapped his pre-mapped itinerary because he was compelled to pull over dozens of times instead of the handful of stops he’d planned.

The vistas were perfect for his portfolio, but Shannon said it was hard to beat an opportunity to capture some close-ups of a family of black bears. He added nearly a dozen prints from that trip to a collection that celebrates destinations ranging from the Grand Tetons to the Swiss Alps.

Though aspects of Glacier remind Shannon of other places he’s photographed in the Canadian Rockies, he’s eager to return in summertime to photograph the park’s alpine wildflowers.

“There’s just so much to see, it’s really unique,” Shannon said. “I could go on and on about how beautiful that drive is.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"},{"type":"bold"}],"text":"A Catch-22"}]

But the park’s growing popularity has proved problematic for locals who want to pop in for a spontaneous visit. Over the past five seasons, Glacier instituted a strict vehicle reservation system for peak visiting hours along the highway to combat the congestion that comes with 3 million annual visitors, nearly double the average seen from the 1980s through the early 2000s.

That controversial reservation system was eliminated for the 2026 season, though a three-hour parking limit at Logan Pass will be implemented this year — yet another attempt to encourage visitors to ditch their cars in lieu of other modes of transportation including free shuttles or paid tours aboard the park’s historic red jammer buses.

Still, the throng of tourists who travel along Flathead Lake each summer creates a Catch-22 for small business owners in Polson, about 70 miles south of West Glacier.

Polson’s relative proximity to the park doesn’t necessarily make a summertime visit any easier for fixtures at the town’s Friday farmers market like Wendi Arnold, co-owner of 

, and John Dalpiaz, owner of the apparel company 

Arnold isn’t sure a Glacier getaway is in the cards this year. A dwindling number of local dairy farms means that she and her husband already spend a lot of time on the road, making frequent three-hour round-trip journeys to Kalispell to fetch milk for their artisanal cheeses.

If Arnold is able to squeeze in a visit, she might opt to leave the driving to someone else by taking one of the red bus tours.

“You get to just be a passenger and focus on the majesty of it all,” Arnold said. “There’s just something about being in those glacial valleys—the vistas are spectacular.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"},{"type":"bold"}],"text":"A Most Epic Experience"}]

Like Arnold, Dalpiaz isn’t sure he’ll make it to Glacier this summer.

But he’s had the good fortune of visiting the park so many times he can’t even remember his first time there — though he reckons it was before he could walk or talk — and has come to enjoy the park outside of peak season.

In fact, his “most epic” experience was a few years ago while biking the Going-to-the-Sun road with a friend before it opened to vehicle traffic, a popular springtime activity. 

When the duo spotted a slew of grizzly bears headed toward them, four or five in total, they pulled off the side of the road and hid behind a tree, watching as the bears ambled past.

“That was a trippy experience,” Dalpiaz recalled.

While seeing grizzly bears undeniably makes for a memorable trip, Dalpiaz also enjoys appreciating the beauty of Glacier anew through the eyes of a first-timer—whenever that might happen next.

“Every little turn, every little bend of the road is jaw-dropping and you want to stop at every single opportunity,” Dalpiaz said. “It’s one of the most beautiful drives the planet has to offer.”

Anna Louise Jackson can be reached at: Jackson.Anna@gmail.com

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<title>'Most Beautiful Road In America': Glacier's Going-to-the-Sun Road Opens For Summer | Cowboy State Daily</title>

The Going-to-the-Sun Road in Montana’s Glacier National Park, which opened for the summer Monday, is considered by many to be the most beautiful road in America. So be prepared to have plenty of company, human and otherwise, on the way to Logan Pass.

'Most Beautiful Road In America': Glacier's Going-to-the-Sun Road Opens For Summer

Many relics from the age of the steam engine in Wyoming remain. Some are grandiose, like 

One of these relics is the Lusk Water Tower, a point of pride in eastern Wyoming. It’s one of the few structures of its kind remaining in the United States, still standing strong 140 years after it was built.

“It's pretty important and iconic to the community,” said Leslie Stewart, a volunteer at 

. “I think there would be a drive to save it again if we needed to.”

It's also significant as one of only six surviving redwood water towers in the United States, according to the Niobrara County Historical Society.

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Built Better"}]

In 1886, the Fremont, Elkhorn and Missouri Railway was establishing a line to connect Douglas and Chadron, South Dakota. This necessitated new depots and water towers along the route to ensure the steam engines kept running.

Lusk was chosen because it had, at the time, the only post office along the intended route.

Stewart, who’s also a commissioner for Wyoming State Parks and Cultural Resources, said the establishment of this railway was an important development for the newly incorporated town.

“The railroads were coming this way to transport livestock, grain, mining equipment, and coal, but they also provided ready access for ranchers, farmers, and homesteaders coming to settle this area,” he said.

Water towers were essential for steam engines, but the Lusk Water Tower was built to be better. That’s reflected in the specifics of its design.

“It’s mostly made of Douglas fir, but the tank is four-inch planks of redwood,” Stewart said. “It wasn’t an aesthetic choice. They wanted something that would expand with water and hold the thing together tightly when it was wet.”

According to Stewart, adjustability was essential. The circular tank is 25 feet in diameter and equally as tall, but the redwood allowed it to expand and contract as needed.

“It was built like a barrel with metal bands around the outside,” she said. “When the tank was empty, they could tighten the bands. When it was full, they could loosen them up and expand the tank while keeping a tight fit.”

A windmill was used to move water 25 feet up into the tank. At full capacity, it could hold around 44,000 gallons of water.

In a certain sense, the Lusk Water Tower was ahead of its time in design and construction.

The tower and the railway were built by the Wyoming Central Railway, a subsidiary of the Fremont, Elkhorn and Missouri Railway. The director of the subsidiary was Frank Lusk, for whom the town is named.

The Wyoming Central Railway was established specifically to ensure that a Wyoming company would build the line and all its infrastructure.

“That was one of the requirements for the railway,” Stewart said. “They had to have a Wyoming company do the construction.”

There’s another way the Lusk Water Tower happened to be ahead of its time: It was deemed worth saving before it was too late.

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Standing Strong"}]

When the original Lusk train depot was destroyed by fire, the water tower was moved from the center of town to the eastern edge, where it stands today. The tower continued to service steam locomotives until diesels took over.

The railway, which is still in service, changed hands multiple times over the next several decades. However, there were concerns that the Lusk Water Tower might be destroyed by the very railway it had been built to service.

“The Chicago and North Western Transportation Company was moving a lot of heavy coal traffic past the tower,” Stewart said. “The Niobrara County Historical Society was concerned that the vibrations from the trains would destroy the tower.”

In 1971, the Niobrara County Historical Society purchased the Lusk Water Tower. A campaign was immediately started to raise money to restore and repair it.

By 1982, enough was raised for Gillette LNT Fabrication and Construction to do a thorough restoration.

“A lot of different organizations helped fund that restoration, including the Wyoming Legislature and the Chicago and North Western Transportation Company,” Stewart said. “I don't think the railroad had any interest in saving it, although they did help in the end.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Lusk’s Own"}]

In 1991, the Lusk Water Tower was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Rheba Massey, the historian who submitted the form for its consideration, said the tower was “one small part of that great expansion” that had “a major effect on the settlement history of the area.”

“The Lusk Water Tower represents this early development of rail transportation, including steam locomotion from the period of 1886 to World War II,” she wrote. “Massive water towers and windmills were regular features of station sites during the age of steam, (and) the Lusk Water Tower is Wyoming's only surviving railroad structure of its type.”

The railway is currently owned by Union Pacific, which still sends plenty of freight past the iconic tower.

As of 2026, the only other tower of its type that’s easy to track down is the Gerlach Water Tower, built in 1909 in Gerlach, Nevada.

Stewart wasn’t sure how many redwood water towers were built or how many remain. She’s content that the Lusk Water Tower isn’t going anywhere.

“We still get people asking about the tower,” she said. “Alumni come home and say they had to swing by the tower to make sure it was still there.”

She also applauded everyone who recognized the tower’s historic significance and organized the successful effort to save it, at a time when historical preservation wasn’t as popular as it would become.

“If those historically astute people hadn’t recognized that, I’m not sure it would have been saved,” she said.

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<title>Lusk's Redwood Water Tower, One Of 6 Left In US, Still Standing After 140 Years | Cowboy State Daily</title>

The redwood water tower in Lusk was built in 1886 to keep steam engines running between Wyoming and South Dakota. While the engines are gone, the tower endures 140 years after it was built and is one of six such relics still standing in the United States.

Lusk's Redwood Water Tower, One Of 6 Left In US, Still Standing After 140 Years

Headshot of Cowboy State Daily's business and tourism reporter, Renée Jean

Renée Jean

Wyoming Life

In a modern West where history is increasingly paved over or fenced in, Wyoming’s notorious Hole in the Wall outlaw hideout stands out as one of few places that remains just as wild as it was more than a century ago. 

Here, a towering red rock wall rises 400 feet and stretches, seemingly unbroken, for 35 miles. 

There’s an ocean of blue sky above and a sea of green prairiegrass below without another human soul for endless miles. This cliff appears both seamless and impassible — a beautiful, if formidable, sight.

Hidden within that long wall, however, is a single passage where a man can slip past the rock and simply vanish. 

And that is what gave this place its name, the Hole in the Wall. 

It’s not really a hole in the wall, cowboy historian Clay Gibbons tells visitors on his tours of the remote hideout. It’s more like a notch, just wide enough for a single man on horseback to squeeze through. 

Beyond that notch lies a secluded and lush valley just right for grazing stolen cattle and horses, and impossible to see from the outside.

The narrowness of this nearly invisible notch also makes it easy to defend. A lone gunman with plenty of ammunition can hold off a much larger force. 

That helped keep lawmen at bay for decades, creating a haven for outlaws ranging from Harvey Logan — better known as Kid Curry — to Butch Cassidy. 

Though Cassidy didn’t spend as much time here as he did a place further west called 

 where three states meet, giving him three  directions to escape the law.

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"},{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Finding The 'Hole'"}]

One of the first things Gibbons does on his tours is teach visitors how to find the nearly invisible passage. 

“So there’s that red wall that has no shadows on it,” Gibbons said, pointing toward the red cliffs. “And then there’s this one that has shadows. You see where it comes together? There’s a triangular shadow. 

"And at the top left of that triangle there’s a little white dot.”

It looks insignificant. In reality, it’s a flat, white rock measuring 12 feet by 15 feet. 

“We’re about 3 miles away from the hole right now, so as we get closer, that will get bigger,” Gibbons said. “But first, we’re going to stop at the Hole in the Wall Fight site, where I put up a state historical marker, and I’ll tell you how I found that location. That’s going to be some story.”

Stories are actually what Gibbons’ Hole in the Wall tours are all about. 

They begin the moment his vehicle lurches onto a rugged two-track — less road and more dry riverbed. It’s a ride that jostles the insides in more than one direction at once, even as an untamed and beautiful landscape unfolds.

Gibbons laughs about the roughness of the ride and admits some would question his speed, given the bumpy terrain. But, he adds with a grin, the pace is absolutely necessary. 

Even by vehicle, this trip to the Hole in the Wall will take every bit of an entire day, from sunup to sundown. There’s a lot to see and a lot of history to tell, so the truck careens onward without slowing down.

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"},{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Growing Up With History"}]

Gibbons comes by his love of history naturally. His dad loved it, too. 

Growing up, the third-generation Worland native went everywhere with his dad, who owned an implement dealership. To help pass the time, Gibbons’ dad would tell him all kinds of interesting historical tales. 

By the time he was 16, Gibbons had heard so much about the Fetterman massacre, for example, he was timing his entire school day by it on its 100th anniversary.

“I didn’t get anything done in school that day,” Gibbons said with a chuckle. “I stared at the clock and I was thinking, ‘OK, right now Fetterman is doing this. Right now Crazy Horse is doing this.’ I mean, I was just mesmerized.”

For Gibbons, though, it’s never been enough to know what happened when. He also wants to know where it happened. Exactly where.

One day as he and his dad were driving south of Ten Sleep over Spring Creek, a 9-year-old Gibbons asked his father where 

“He kind of waved out to the side,” Gibbons recalled. “Somewhere over there.”

That answer didn’t satisfy Gibbons, and sent him on a lifetime historical search that would eventually uncover lost details of that raid and allow him to pinpoint exactly where it happened.

Gibbons applied that same mentality to the 1897 Hole in the Wall Fight. 

At first, the location of the gun battle was a mystery.

Newspapers only mentioned the battle’s location vaguely. Locals, meanwhile, would say it was by the Bob Smith Hill, “somewhere over there.”

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"}],"text":"Those were fighting words to Gibbons. "}]

He started digging into old court papers and documents, trying to find something that could help him pin down an exact location. 

From that effort, he learned that county officials at the time weren’t sure whether the shooting was a Natrona County or a Johnson County crime. They sent a surveyor to the scene to find the county line and determine which county had jurisdiction.

Clay was eventually able to track down the surveyor’s century-old field notes, which mentioned a large pile of rocks marking the site of the shooting. 

Gibbons had noticed an unusual pile of rocks when he had visited before. They weren’t like the rock Indian cairns that mark the 1,500-year-old Sioux War Trail that winds through the Hole in the Wall country. And they weren’t like a grave marker either.

Using Bureau of Land Management maps and the surveyor’s legal descriptions, Gibbons was eventually able to verify that the pile of rocks he’d seen was in the same spot indicated by the surveyor’s notes.

A stone monument now stands at the site of the battle on a windswept knob just above Buffalo Creek. 

The marker retells the story of the battle. 

Stock detective Bob Divine of the CY Cattle Co. had ridden up to the Hole in the Wall with 10 cowboys to look for rustled cattle. They met three members of the local outlaw crowd, brothers-in-law Bob and Al Smith and their partner Bob Taylor.

“There was animosity between Bob Divine and Bob Smith,” Gibbons said. “Divine asked if they’d seen any CY cattle and Smith replied, ‘Not a damn one.’”

Smith, believing that Divine was about to pull his weapon, pulled his own gun first. 

In a modern West where history is increasingly paved over, Wyoming’s notorious Hole in the Wall outlaw hideout remains just as wild as it was more than a century ago. Here, a towering red rock wall rises 400 feet and stretches for 35 miles. 

One More For The Road: Wednesday, January 11, 2023

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